In human terms, city streets are the arteries and veins. City parks though? They’re the heart. In a city of almost incomprehensible size, where finding the “there” can be elusive amidst the concrete density, Ibirapuera Park is a breath of fresh air and the heart of the city. It’s no surprise that Paulistas (as locals are known) flock here each weekend as it’s seemingly the only place to feel you’ve escaped São Paulo without actually doing so.
On a weekend in December – early in Brazil’s summertime – the park was full without feeling so. The park is frequently compared to NYC’s Central Park and serves the same purpose even though it could fit inside with almost enough room for a second Ibirapuera Park. The park is also completely flat with a well-paved path making for a perfect and easy walk, bike ride, roller-blade, or jogging path. (Bikes are available for rental at various points). It would be easy to navigate a wheelchair on such a path.
My son and I walked from the Hotel InterContinental (a good, long walk) to the park and spent the better part of a day here, first in Museu Afro Brasil then just trodding the pathways and observing the Sampa life. As we sat and watched a pick-up soccer game being played on a concrete court, he remarked that Buenos Aires had no such places for outdoor, group sporting activities; in this park, the opportunities are numerous (soccer, basketball, volleyball).
We passed a big, interesting looking playground area for children, lakes, fountains, more museums, and some extensive lawn areas barely occupied by anyone. We wandered. We saw a million little rolling food and drink kiosks, all selling exactly the same junk food (who knew purple Fanta was so popular?). We also saw about 1 million policemen patrolling the park on bicycle leading me to feel that this park is extremely safe in the daytime and that the Brazilians in charge intend to keep it so.
Even in a park full of people Park Ibirapuera never felt crowded. In fact, it felt quite the opposite. It’s a great escape from the city without actually escaping.
